Laminated Logs, Milled Logs, SidingGlu-Lam-Log Construction Tips, butt and pass corners
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Building a Butt and Pass Corner for Your Log Home

Page 1 | Page 2 | Page 3

5

Setting the First Row or Course

Set the pass log on the starter plate, making sure the desired tail length is achieved. Allow an offset for optional siding, if desired. Temporarily toe nail the butt log to the pass log. Doing this helps to hold the logs in place for the next step. Make sure the intersection of the logs is plumb and square. Install the butt log against the pass log.

Setting first row or course, butt and pass corners
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6

Fastening The LogsFastening logs, butt and pass corners

Predrill logs using the appropriate bit for the size of fastener used. Heads of fasteners and washers should be countersunk into the log.

Use an impact wrench to drive the lags. Make sure logs are secured tightly.

Note: Spikes can be used but our builders tell us lags work better.

7

Sealing The Butt Joint

Use an auger bit to drill a one inch diameter hole at the butt joint. Half of the diameter of hole should be on the butt log and half on the pass log. The hole should be deep enough to slightly penetrate the starter plate or, in subsequent courses, the log below. Fill the hole half full of caulk. Drive a peg or dowel that is slightly shorter than the depth of the hole into place. The peg and caulk will make an airtight seal.

Note: The same pegging procedure is used where logs butt together in the middle of a wall.

Sealing the butt joint, butt and pass corners

8

Removing Tongue from Tail

Remove the tongue from the tail and from the portion of the pass log upon which the next log will rest. The length of the tongue removed should equal the length of the drip lip that was removed in Step #3, plus the width of the pass log. A belt sander or hand planer works best.

Removing Tongue, butt and pass corners