What do you mean by ‘log cabin siding’?
We define log cabin siding as individual boards or cants that have been milled to simulate the look of logs. Siding can give a log home look to framed structures.
Does your siding really look like logs?
Yes. Actually, some of our siding profiles are milled to exactly match the profile of our logs. It’s hard to believe unless you’ve actually seen the results.
I just don’t believe that the results can be as dramatic as you say. Do you have any before and after pictures to illustrate the results?
We agree that our claims sound almost too good to be true; however, the results shared with us by satisfied customers don’t lie! Our log cabin siding can transform any home, even trailers and modular homes, to look like a log cabin. Since pictures and customer accounts really do tell the story, we strongly recommend you check out the before-and-after accounts of improvements made with our log cabin siding.
I’m building an addition to my home. Do you have siding to match the pre-existing siding I have on my home?
Most manufacturers use their own profiles when milling their products. This can be a problem when trying to find other materials that match. Over the years, however, we’ve done quite a bit of custom planing, and have accumulated a wide variety of profile knives. Chances are that if we can’t match your existing materials precisely, we’ll be able to come close enough to provide you with an attractive and cost-effective way of completing your project.
Can I use your siding, even if it won’t exactly match my pre-existing logs or siding?
While drastic differences in stack height and profile will always be noticeable, there are tricks you can use to make variations less apparent, such as creating some sort of vertical separation between the old and new material. If you send us a sample or end trace of your existing logs or siding, we'll do our best to find as close a match as possible.
Can I apply your siding over my existing siding?
Generally speaking, no. For the best application, the siding really needs to be installed with a solid, flat surface – such as plywood or waferboard -- as backing. If your existing siding is flat, you can probably get by without removing it. If you have questions about your particular installation, give us a call.
What is the best way to install your siding?
The first step is to ensure that you have a solid, flat surface for backing. To attach the siding, most people use a coated or plated finish nail and countersink the head slightly. We’re told that ring-shanked nails work well. A nail long enough to penetrate the thickest part of the siding and your sheathing should be about right. A nail gun works really well. It's a good idea to try to hit studs when possible, and you should nail directly through the thick part of the siding.
I don’t want it to be obvious that I have siding. Won’t the nails be visible?
Fortunately, there are simple measures you can take to make the nails less noticeable.
- Use a random nailing pattern. This fools the eye and makes it less likely for it to pick up nail holes.
- Use the curvature of the siding to your advantage. You can hide the nails by toe nailing upward slightly through the bottom of the curvature on lower courses, and downward through the upper curvature on upper courses.
- Use a finish nail and counter sink the heads.
Optionally, you can fill nail holes with carpenter's putty, or other filler. However, the vast majority of people find this unnecessary. If you follow these procedures, the nail holes become almost invisible when you apply a finish.
Is it possible to have authentic looking log corners to match my siding?
Adding true log corners to a siding application is a terrific way to create a log home look alike. That's we offer matching log corners as an option. These are simply pieces of our logs that have the exact same profile as the siding. A ‘tail’ that matches the thickness and curvature of the siding attaches to the wall and an overhanging section of log extends past the corner of the home. Using these corners will result in an authentic-looking butt-and-pass corner. If you prefer a different corner style, other options, such as a posted corner or mitered corner, are possible. Check out our section on corner configurations for more information.
I have decided on Glu-Lam-Log products for my home, and it seems practical to use siding for some of the walls. Will this be obvious to the eye?
You’re not alone! It is fairly common for customers to save some money by using siding to finish parts of their homes, such as a garages, patios, or sheds. Since our siding is finely milled to exactly match the profile and finish of our logs, you would be hard pressed to notice the difference. If the siding is applied correctly, as described above, you won’t be able to tell where the logs end and the siding begins.
Is your siding pre-finished?
We do not treat or finish our siding with any sort of a protective sealant at the factory; however it is very important that you do this upon applying the siding to your home.
Do I need to specially finish the exposed grain at butt ends of the siding?
This is another good question. The butt ends of siding have open grain that readily accepts the exterior finish you are using. If you dab finish on the ends, capillary action will draw the finish deep into the wood in the same direction as the living tree drew water from its roots.
Is there any way to join the siding to prevent water from getting into the butt ends?
While thoroughly treating the siding with a quality finish should sufficiently protect the butt ends from any sort of water damage, we understand that some customers simply won’t accept anything less than perfection. Here are a couple of suggestions we’ve heard:
- Use a "biscuit" to join siding ends. Biscuit joining kits are available at Sears or other stores that sell woood-working tools.
- Rout a kerf on both sides of butt joint and fill the kerfs with silicone or flexible caulk.
What lengths does your siding come in?
We carefully inspect each piece of siding as it comes out of the planer, making sure to trim off any unsightly or unusable material. Because of this trimming, the finished product is in random lengths, generally from 6’ to 16’ long…heavy to the longs.
